Amazing churches near Iași
Photo by Iulian Aruxandei
Religion

Amazing churches near Iași

If you're an active believer in more than one way, the churches and monasteries in the metropolitan area of Iași are worth a journey.

The metropolitan area around Iași is blessed with wonderful forests, hills and communes that make for unique hiking routes. If you want to combine a more active experience with visiting some of the oldest monasteries in the villages outside Iași, this guide is for you.

To the north of the city, in the Aroneanu commune, you’ll find the St. Nicholas Aroneanu Church, a masterpiece of the Moldavian style. It’s named after Aron Vodă, the ruler of those lands between 1591 and 1595, who promised to build a monastery in the place where his daughter, who was lost in the woods, would be found. To the west of the village, lake Aroneanu and to the north-west, lake Dorobanț are perfect for some time alone in the nature. You can find resorts here and also take kayak lessons with Eager Beaver.

The rest of the churches are all to the south of the city. Cetățuia Monastery is dominated by forests and vineyards. It was built between 1668-1672 by the Lord of Moldavia Gheorghe Duca. Legend has it that there was a tunnel between the Royal Court in the city center and the Citadel Monastery for a quick evacuation in case of danger, the fortifications of the monastery often defending the lords of Moldova from attacks. In the courtyard you can see the Turkish bath, the Royal House with the monastic museum and the Gothic Hall, in the basement of which are the monastery wineries. The aviator Aurel Vlaicu flew over the Citadel in 1911, admired by the royal family.

On the Bucium hill, set in a secluded area, Bucium Monastery invites the visitor to discover the architectural beauty, the uniqueness of the interior paintings, the Byzantine painting workshop and the wine cellar.

Lastly. hidden in the secular enclaves of Iaşi, the Bârnova monastery, around which the whole community developed, is protected by fortified walls, with ramparts. For the first time in Moldova, in the churches of Barnovschi-Voda, there is the bell tower attached to the church, located above the porch. This is a fortification element, provided with ramparts for rifle shooting and a secret cell, in which the church’s priceless items could be hidden in time of distress. You can read more about its history in the list below.

The closeness of the surrounding hills of Iași makes it a unique city for those who want to experience both a modern metropolis and natural, rural areas.

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Churches
Aroneanu commune takes its name from the ruler Aron Vodă (1591-1595). At that time, the whole area was forested, and the legend says that the ruler's daughter got lost in this forest.

The ruler swore that he would set up a monastery in the place where it would be found. This is how the Church of St. Nicholas Aroneanu appeared in 1594, built in Moldavian style, with a unique exterior decoration in the history of Romanian medieval art. Specific to this church are the rows of colored terracotta discs, alternating with six-pointed stars and a row of ornaments in the shape of oak leaves. The forest around the church served as a shelter for the Tartar armies that gathered here before attacking the city.

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Photo by Cezar Suceveanu

Churches
The Cetățuia Monastery, located on the hill of the same name, guards the city with its slender silhouette.

Originally conceived as a medieval complex of fortifications, the monastery is the founding of Lord Gheorghe Duca. It served as a refuge for several Moldovan rulers, including Dimitrie Cantemir, during the Russian-Turkish war of 1710-1713, or Mihai Racoviță during the battle with the Austrian army of Captain Ferentz (1717). In the eighteenth century, a part of the western wall collapsed due to a landslide, and the monastery was used in certain periods as a warehouse of the Turkish army (1788) or as a military hospital of the Russian armies (1788-1792 and 1806 -1812). Besides the destruction during the wars, earthquakes, fires and carelessness destroyed the monastery complex. It burned in 1822, when the Turks set on fire some nearby houses. The monastery was a ruin at the end of the 19th century, being described sadly by writers like Alecu Russo, Vasile Alecsandri and Nicolae Iorga as deserted, collapsed and with grounded walls. It was partially restored in 1910-1911, the First World War transforming it into a military hospital. In 1911, the famous aviator Aurel Vlaicu flew over the city of Iasi with his plane, making several turns around the monastery. At the time the royal family of Romania, visiting Iaşi, admired from here the aircraft built by the pilot himself. In 1930, at the initiative of Nicolae Iorga, the church and the monastery rooms were restored, followed by further consolidations between 1964 and 1971.

The monastery was surrounded by tall stone walls, ramparts and a guard road, with a monumental tower and four corner towers for defence. At the level of the belfry tower (1670) one can see the emblem of Moldavia carved in stone, framed by two circular chambers which were previously equipped with canons. Above there is an oriental mosaic representing the Virgin with Baby Jesus.

The church dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul (1672) was built between 1668-1672 according to the plans of the architect Grigore Cornescul and represents the simplified version of the Three Hierarchs Monastery. There is a braided median girdle and octagonal tower with a square base and a star, but without the stone lace from the Three Hierarchs. The interior is remarkable because of the hosting of the paintings of 1673 best kept in the porch, alongside with the ones restored in the 19th century. To the east, Cuhnea Domneasca (the former bath) is the only one of this type preserved in a monastery complex. On the southern side is the Abbey with the Gothic Hall named “Anastasia Doamna”, with elements of Brancovan architecture. It was originally painted in the fresco and housed the ruler’s secret counsel. In the basement there are cellars that host the wine where wine tastings are organized. On the western side there is the Princiary Palace with the Monastic Museum. This building served as a refuge for the reigning family and the monks of the monastery. Further, there is the Group of monk cells, which feature the tower called “Pilgrims dining”, from which you can see a beautiful panorama over the city.

Legends say there are dozens of cellars and secret tunnels under Cetățuia, but one leads directly to the Royal Court from the Palace of Culture, thus facilitating the rapid evacuation of those in distress.

Str. Cetățuia 2, Iași 707317
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Churches
Descending from Păun village, we reach Bucium Monastery. It was built in Moldavian style in the 19th century and was known as a resting place for Moldavian metropolitans.

Set in a secluded area, Bucium Monastery invites the visitor to discover the architectural beauty, the uniqueness of the interior paintings, the Byzantine painting workshop and the wine cellar.

Strada Păun nr. 24, Iași 700274
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Photo by barnova.mmb.ro

Churches
The Bârnova Monastery, around which the whole community developed, was built between 1626 and 1666 by the voivodes Miron Barnovschi and Eustratie Dabija, on the site of an old wooden church dating back to 1603.

Hidden in the secular enclaves of Iaşi, the monastery is protected by fortified walls, with ramparts. For the first time in Moldova, in the churches of Barnovschi-Voda, there is the bell tower attached to the church, located above the porch. This is a fortification element, provided with ramparts for rifle shooting and a secret cell, in which the church’s priceless items could be hidden in time of distress.

Since 1663, when the monastery was dedicated to the Patriarchate of Jerusalem, and the holy place was managed by Greek monks for 200 years. In 1728, Gregory II Ghica built new stone houses, a wall of enclosure with defence towers, crenels, and a guard arbour. He has settled temporarily here with all the courtiers in order to avoid the epidemic of the time. In 1863, as a result of Prince Cuza’s law of secularization of the monasteries, the domains and assets of the monastery became state property, while the palace of Daphina Dabija, the wife of the founding prince, was transformed into a village school and a parish house. Between 1908 and 1945, the sanctuary became a parish, then became a monastery for nuns. During the Communist period it became a parish again, and since 1991 it has regained the status of a monastery.

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